Test 10
NOTE:
The following test to start with a cold engine.
- Check choke and fast idle cam linkage. Set accelerator linkage to the proper start position. Remove air cleaner. Check choke plate and fast idle cam position.
- Choke plate should be in fully closed position and fast idle screw should be on the highest step of the fast idle cam. If choke and cam position are okay, go to step 3). Choke not fully closed or cam not in position, check for choke plate sticking or binding. Repair choke and linkage as required.
- Check choke vacuum kick. Remove air cleaner. Set fast idle speed screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam. Remove vacuum hose from choke diaphragm. Connect an auxiliary vacuum supply to choke diaphragm. Apply 15 in. Hg of vacuum. Measure clearance between top of choke plate and air horn wall.
- Vacuum should hold at applied setting and choke plate should be in proper position of vacuum kick specifications. If vacuum holds and choke vacuum kick is within specifications, go to step 5). If vacuum does not hold, replace choke vacuum kick diaphragm.
- Check heated air intake system. Disconnect air duct from air cleaner snorkel. Disconnect vacuum supply hose to heated air intake system air temperature sensor. Apply 15 in. Hg of vacuum.
- Vacuum should close heated air door when air temperature is below 76°F (25°C) and then slowly bleed down opening the heated air door. The 1.6L models have a vacuum delay valve at the heated air door vacuum diaphragm. This will delay the opening of the door when vacuum bleeds off.
- If vacuum builds up and closes the heated air door and then bleeds down, go to step 8) for 1.6L models and step 9 for 2.2L models. If vacuum builds up but heated air door does not close, repair or replace door as necessary. If vacuum does not build up or does not bleed down, replace air temperature sensor. If vacuum builds up, bleeds down, but heated air door does not open, repair or replace door as required.
- Check coolant temperature sensor (1.6L Models only). For 2.2L models, go to step 9). Disconnect coolant sensor connector. Connect ohmmeter between coolant sensor terminals. Ohmmeter should read as follows: From -40 to 20°F (-60 to -6.7°C), 382,000-22,000 ohms. From 50 to 100°F (10 to 38°C), 36,000-3,300 ohms. From 140 to 245°F (60 to 118°C), 3,900-176 ohms. If resistance is okay, go to step 11). If resistance is not okay, replace coolant sensor.
- Check coolant temperature sensor, (2.2L models only). Disconnect coolant sensor. Connect an ohmmeter between terminals 1 and 3 of the coolant sensor. Ohmmeter should read as follows: Below 150°F (66°C), 20-200 ohms. From 150 to 200°F (66 to 93°C), 100-150 ohms. Above 200°F (93°C), 400-6,000 ohms. If resistance is okay, go to step 10). If resistance is not okay, replace coolant sensor.
- With coolant sensor connector disconnected and ohmmeter connected between terminals 1 and 2 of 2.2L coolant sensor. Ohmmeter should read as follows: From -40 to 20°F (-60 to -6.7°C), 382,000-22,000 ohms. From 50 to 100°F (10 to 38°C), 36,000-3,300 ohms. From 140 to 245°F (60 to 118°C), 3,900-176 ohms. If resistance is okay, go to step 11). If resistance is not okay, replace coolant sensor.
- Check EGR system CVSCC valve. Disconnect CVSCC valve at vacuum hose connector. Connect auxiliary vacuum supply to valve. Apply at least 10 in. Hg of vacuum. Vacuum should hold engine coolant temperature below 125°F (52°C). If vacuum is okay, go to step 12). If vacuum does not hold, replace CVSCC valve.
- Check choke position with engine running. Remove air cleaner. Start engine. Check position of choke plate. Choke plate should open from a fully closed position. If choke plate is in proper position, system is okay. If choke plate is not in proper position, adjust choke as required.