Power Window Master Switch Input Test

NOTE: Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control system first, using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A ).

Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), open and close the driver's door, then remove the power window master switch panel (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT ).
Disconnect the 37P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B).

Fig 1: Identifying Power Window Master Switch Connector Terminals
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.

Reconnect the connector to the power window master switch, turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do the following input tests:

If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.

If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.

POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH INPUT TEST RESULT

Cavity	Wire	Test condition	Test: Desired result	Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
25	LT GRN	Ignition switch ON (II)	Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. C26 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty IG2 cut relay An open or high resistance in the wire
31	BLK	In all ignition switch positions	Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V.	Poor ground (G401) An open or high resistance in the ground wire
3	BLK	In all ignition switch positions	Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V.	Poor ground (G402) An open or high resistance in the ground wire

Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), open and close the driver's door, then disconnect the 37P connector from the power window master switch again.

With the connector still disconnected, do the following input tests:

If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.

If all the input tests prove OK, the power window master switch must be faulty, replace it (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT ).

NOTE: After replacing the power window master switch, reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).

POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH INPUT TEST RESULT

Cavity	Wire	Test condition	Test: Desired result	Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
7	GRY	Ignition switch ON (II), power mirror switch in RIGHT mirror position	Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage when the power mirror switch LEFT or DOWN is pressed.	Blown No. C26 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty IG2 cut relay Faulty power mirror switch An open or high resistance in the wire
6	LT BLU	Ignition switch ON (II), power mirror switch in RIGHT mirror position	Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage when the power mirror switch RIGHT is pressed.	Blown No. C26 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty IG2 cut relay Faulty power mirror switch An open or high resistance in the wire
5	RED	Ignition switch ON (II), power mirror switch in RIGHT mirror position	Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage when the power mirror switch UP is pressed.	Blown No. C26 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty IG2 cut relay Faulty power mirror switch An open or high resistance in the wire
37	BRN	Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 25 and No. 37 with a jumper wire	Check the power mirror switch light operation: The power mirror switch light should come on.	Faulty LED Faulty power mirror switch Poor ground (G401) or an open in the ground wire An open or high resistance in the wire
15	ORN	Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 25 and No. 15 with a jumper wire	Check the left power mirror defogger operation: The left power mirror defogger should work (the inside lower edge becomes warm).	Faulty left power mirror defogger Poor ground (G401) or an open in the ground wire An open or high resistance in the wire

NOTE: When testing for defogger function (see FUNCTION TEST ), hold a cup of hot steaming water near the glass. The steam can help diagnose a broken or under-performing defogger grid.