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Power Window Master Switch Input Test

NOTE: Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control unit first, using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A ).
  1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
  2. Open and close the driver's door, then remove the power window master switch (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT  ).
  3. Disconnect the 37P connector (A) from the door power window master switch (B).
    Fig 1: Identifying 37P Connector And Door Power Window Master Switch
    G08083524Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
  4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
    • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
    • If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.
  5. With the connector still disconnected, do the following input tests:
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.
    Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
    2 YEL Connect terminals No. 4 and No. 1 (or No. 2), and terminals No. 2 (or No. 1) and No. 3 with jumper wires. Check driver's power window motor operation:
    The driver's power window should open (or close).
    • Faulty driver's power window motor
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    1 GRN
    16 GRN Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 4 and No. 27 (or No. 16), and terminals No. 16 (or No. 27) and No. 3 with jumper wires Check left rear power window motor operation:
    The left rear power window should open (or close).
    • Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty left rear power window switch
    • Faulty left rear power window motor
    • Poor ground(G601) or an open in the ground wire
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    27 LT BLU
    18 PUR Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 4 and No. 29 (or No. 18), and terminals No. 18 (or No. 29) and No. 3 with jumper wires Check right rear power window motor operation:
    The right rear power window should open (or close).
    • Faulty passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty right rear power window switch
    • Faulty right rear power window motor
    • Poor ground(G701)or an open in the ground wire
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    29 LT
    GRN
    37 PNK Connect terminals No. 4 and No. 37 with a jumper wire Check left and right rear power window switch lights:
    The left and right rear power window switch lights should come on.
    • Faulty LED
    • Faulty left or right rear power window switch
    • Poor ground (G601, G701) or an open in the ground wire
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    36 BLU Disconnect the front passenger's power window switch 37P and the moonroof control unit/motor 14P connectors Check for continuity between terminal No. 36 and front passenger's power window switch 37P connector terminal No. 34:
    There should be continuity.
    An open in the UART wire
    Check for continuity between terminal No. 36 and moonroof control unit/motor 14P connector terminal No. 12:
    There should be continuity.
    An open in the UART wire
    Check for continuity to ground:
    There should be no continuity.
    A short to ground in the UART wire
  6. Reconnect the connector to the power window master switch, turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do the following input tests:
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, the door multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the power window master switch (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT  ).
    NOTE: After replacing the power window master switch, reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT  ).
    Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
    26 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. A15 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
    • Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    25 LT GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. B16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    4 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. B24 (20 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    31 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be less than 0.2 V.
    • Poor ground (G401)
    • An open or high resistance in the ground wire
    3 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be less than 0.2 V.
    • Poor ground (G402)
    • An open or high resistance in the ground wire
    13 PUR Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Faulty power window master switch
    • Faulty driver's power window motor
    • A short to ground in the wire
    19 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 19 and No. 3:
    An analog voltmeter should alternate to between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves).
    • Faulty power window master switch
    • Faulty driver's power window motor
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    • A short to ground in the wire
    17 PNK Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 17 and No. 3:
    An analog voltmeter should alternate to between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V wile the window moves.)
    • Faulty power window master switch
    • Faulty driver's power window motor
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    • A short to ground in the wire