Special Tools Required
Alternator, Regulator, Battery & Starter Tester OTC3131
*Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857
- Air temperature must be between 59 and 100°F (15 and 38°C) during this procedure.
- After the inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from functioning.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
- Remove the air intake duct (see step 1 on FRONT BULKHEAD COVER REPLACEMENT ).
- Connect the alternator, regulator, battery & starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown below.NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
- Do the BATTERY TEST.
Does the display indicates GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE?
YES - The battery is OK. Go to step 4.
NO - If the display indicate BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the display indicate CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
- Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
- Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
- Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION with the HDS.
- Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in N or P, turn the ignition switch to START (III) to crank the engine.
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 15.
NO - Go to step 9.
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
- Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 15.
NO - Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action: ■
- If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 11.
- If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 13.
- If the starter does not disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Starter solenoid and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
- Damaged torque converter ring gear
- Make sure the shift lever is in N or P, then disconnect the connector (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal.
- Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:NOTE: After the open circuit or high resistance in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 15.
- A blown STS (7.5 A) fuse in the auxiliary under dash fuse holder located below the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- A blown ST RLD (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between the under-hood fuse/relay box, starter cut relay 1 and the ignition switch.
- Check for an open or short in the GRN wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the PCM.
- Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2.
- Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 2 and the starter.
- Check for an open or short in the YEL wire, LT BLU wire, and connectors between the ignition switch and the PCM.
- Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the PCM, the starter cut relay 1, and the starter cut relay 2.
- Check for an open or short in the BLU/WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2.
- Check for an open or short in the BLU wire, BLU/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the transmission range switch.
- Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground (G101).
- Check for a faulty ignition switch (see TEST ).
- Check for a faulty transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST ).
- Check for a faulty starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 (see POWER RELAY TEST ).
- Do the STARTING TEST with the alternator, regulator, battery & starter tester.NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing.
Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.0 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 375 A ?
YES - Go to step 14.
NO - Replace the starter (see STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ), or remove and disassemble it (see STARTER OVERHAUL ), and check for these problems: ■
- Drag in the starter armature
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine
- Open circuit in the starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in the starter brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty overrunning clutch
- Remove the starter (see STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ), and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
- Select PCM reset in the PGM-FI INSPECTION to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 12.
NO - Remove the starter (see STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ), and repair (see STARTER OVERHAUL ) or replace it as necessary. ■