Stall Speed Test

Make sure the transmission fluid is filled to the proper level (see ATF LEVEL CHECK ).
Apply the parking brake, and block all four wheels.
Connect the HDS to the DLC (A).

Fig 1: Identifying Data Link Connector
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM, and go to the A/T Data List. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting; K24Z1 engine (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ), K24Z6 engine (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
Make sure the A/C switch OFF.
Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). After the engine is warmed up, shift to D.
Firmly press and hold the brake pedal with your left foot, and then firmly press the accelerator pedal with your right foot for 6 to 8 seconds, and note engine speed. Do not move the shift lever while raising engine speed or remove your foot from the brake pedal.
Allow 2 minutes for cooling, then repeat the test in 2, 1, and R.
NOTE:
- Do not test the stall speed for more than 10 seconds at a time.
- Stall speed tests should be used for diagnostic purposes only.
- Stall speed results should be the same in D, 2, 1, and R.
- Do not test stall speed with the A/T pressure gauges installed.
Stall Speed rpm:

Specification: 2, 100 rpm

Service Limit: 1, 950-2, 250 rpm

If any of the stall speeds are is out of the service limit, refer to the possible problems and probable causes listed in the table.

PROBABLE CAUSES REFERENCE CHART

Problem	Probable causes
Stall speed rpm high in D, 2, 1, and R	ATF pump output low Clogged ATF strainer Regulator valve stuck Slipping clutch
Stall speed rpm high in 1	Slippage of 1st clutch
Stall speed rpm high in 2	Slippage of 2nd clutch
Stall speed rpm high in R	Slippage of 4th clutch
Stall speed rpm low in D, 2, 1, and R	Engine output low Engine throttle valve closed Torque converter one-way clutch slipping