Starter Circuit Troubleshooting

NOTE:

Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 °F (15 and 38 °C) during this procedure.
After this inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM), using the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) (see HDS CLEAR COMMAND ), otherwise the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

Remove the left side engine compartment cover (see step 3 on ENGINE REMOVAL ).
Hook up the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0-400 A
- Voltmeter, 0-20 V (accurate within 0.1 V)
Fig 1: Identifying Ammeter And Voltmeter
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).
On the HDS, select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF.
With the shift lever in the N or P position (A/T) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
1. YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 11.
2. NO -Go to step 6.
Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.
Does the starter crank the engine?
1. YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 11.
2. NO -Check the following:
- If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 7.
- If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 8.
- If it will not disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
  - Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
  - Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
Make sure the transmission is in the N or P position (A/T) or neutral (M/T), then disconnect the BLK/ WHT wire (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal.

Fig 2: Disconnecting BLK/ WHT Wire (A) From Starter S Terminal
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

Does the starter crank the engine?
1. YES - Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:
  - The BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the underdash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch
  - The BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the underdash fuse/relay box and the starter
  - The ignition switch (see TEST )
  - The transmission range switch and connector (A/T) (see TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST ) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T) (see CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH TEST )
  - The starter cut relay (see POWER RELAY TEST )
2. NO -Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and the current draw.
Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A?
1. YES - Go to step 9.
2. NO -Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
  - Drag in the starter armature
  - Short in the armature winding
  - Excessive drag in the engine
Check the engine speed while cranking the engine.
Is the engine speed above 100 RPM?
1. YES - Go to step 10.
2. NO -Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
  - Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
  - Excessively worn starter brushes
  - Open circuit in commutator brushes
  - Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
  - Faulty drive gear clutch
Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
Select ECM/PCM reset (see HDS CLEAR COMMAND ) to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
Reinstall the left side engine compartment cover (see step 76 on ENGINE INSTALLATION ).