Alternate Procedure
- Hook up the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0-400 A
- Voltmeter, 0-20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
- Tachometer, 0-1200 RPM
- Remove the No. 46 (15 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- With the shift lever in N or P (A/T), or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to start (III).
Did the starter crank the engine normally?
- YES - The starting system is OK.
- NO
- If the starter won't crank at all, go to step 4. If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 7
. If it won't disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, check for the following until you find the cause.
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
- Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then check the starter again.
Did the starter crank the engine?
- YES - The starting system is OK.
- NO - Go to step 5.
- Make sure the transmission is in neutral, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (A) from the starter solenoid (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Did the starter crank the engine?
- YES - Go to step 6.
- NO - Remove the starter, and diagnose its internal problems.
- Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit.
- Check the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay and the ignition switch, and between the starter cut relay and the starter.
- Check the ignition switch (see TEST ).
- With A/T, check the transmission range switch and connector. With M/T, check the clutch interlock switch and connector.
- Check engine speed during cranking.
Is engine speed above 100 RPM?
- YES - Go to step 8.
- NO
- Remove and disassemble the starter, and check for the following until you find the cause.
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch
- Check the cranking voltage and current draw.
Is cranking voltage no less than 8.5 volts (with A/T) or 8.0 volts (with M/T), and current draw no more than 350 amps (with A/T) or 200 amps (with M/T)?
- YES - Go to step 9.
- NO
- Remove and disassemble the starter, and check for the following until you find the cause.
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Starter armature dragging
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in engine
- Remove the starter and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.